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Salt Generators and How they Work

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

The Chlorine Generation Process:

Most of the packaged chlorine available today is manufactured by the salt process. There are three types of electrolytic
cells: diaphragm, mercury and membrane. There are other methods of production, which are designed to fit the raw material containing the chlorine ion. These methods include the electrolysis of hydrochloric acid, the salt process, and the HCl oxidation process.

Electrochemical Cell

The electrochemical cell is composed of an anode, a cathode, and a separator which isolates the liquids contained in the
anode chamber and the cathode chamber. The function of the separator is to isolate the two chambers while allowing the
migration of selected ions from the anode chamber to the cathode chamber. Brine composed of sodium chloride and water
is introduced into the anode chamber where oxidation of the sodium chloride takes place. Chlorine gas is released at the
anode. The sodium ions are attracted to the negatively charged cathode and transported through the separator. Ideally, all of the chloride would be contained on the anode side of the cell.

Water is reduced at the cathode and hydrogen gas is evolved. The remaining hydroxide ion combines with the sodium ion
to form sodium hydroxide solution (caustic), which exits the cathode chamber. Ideally, all of the hydroxide ions would be
contained on the cathode side of the cell.

Membrane Cell

In the membrane process, the anolyte (the solution in the anode chamber) and the catholyte (the solution in the cathode
chamber) are separated by a cation exchange membrane that selectively transmits sodium ions but suppresses the migration of hydroxyl ions from the catholyte to the anolyte. This produces a catholyte effluent with a strong caustic soda solution with a very low sodium chloride content. The advantage of the membrane process are its energy efficiency and its ability to produce, without any harmful effect on the environment, a strong, high-quality solution of caustic soda (NaOH).

The overall chemical reaction is:
NaCl + H2O + electric current –> NaOH + 1/2 Cl2 + 1/2 H2

The two reactions that make up this overall reaction are:

The principal anode reaction:
2Cl- –> Cl2 + 2e-

Chlorine formed at the anode saturates the anolyte and an equilibrium is established as follows:
Cl2 + (OH)- –> Cl- + HOCl
HOCl < --> H+ + OCl7

This shows that the chlorine is formed and then makes the chloride ion (Cl-), and the hypochlorous acid (HOCl), which
further dissociates in equilibrium to hypochlorite ion (OCl-) and hydrogen ion (H+).

The principal cathode reaction is: 2H+ + 2OH- + 2e- –> H2 + 2OH

The hydrogen ion (H+) present in the H2O in the catholyte evolves at the cathode as hydrogen gas (H2), leaving behind the hydroxyl or hydroxide ion (OH-) in the catholyte. Because chlorine has evolved at the anode, the sodium ion (Na+) is free to join the hydroxide ion (OH-) as it migrates from the anolyte chamber to the catholyte chamber. The porous diaphragm is used to inhibit the migration of the OH- ions from the cathode to the anode.

Ideally, we produce pure hydrogen gas, pure chlorine gas and pure sodium hydroxide in this process.

Mercury Cell

The mercury cell has two essential parts: (1) the elctrolyzer and (2) the amalgam decomposer. In the elctrolyzer, a salt
solution is electrolyzed, making use of a special anode and a flowing mercury cathode. Chlorine gas is liberated at the
anode, and sodium is deposited at the surface of the flowing mercury cathode, in which it dissolves to form a liquid
amalgam. The amalgam flows to the decomposer where it is decomposed with water to form sodium hydroxide and
hydrogen gas. The mercury is then recovered and reused.

In the 1970s, mercury cell operations in the U.S. were found to be discharging effluents containing mercury in excess of the safe limits established by EPA. Some installations were shut down. Those that were not shut down improved the process to the point where the effluent mercury level was below the maximum allowed. There are 91 mercury cell chlorine plants in the world producing more than 11,000 tons of chlorine per day.

The swimming pool industry had a few companies that used a brine solution with a membrane. I am not sure that any of
them are in business today. The one I remember was from Unichlor which grew out of Pinch A Penney in Florida. These
units, very effective, and I have still seen them around. Some operational, some not.

Most chlorine generators in the swimming pool industry today use what is called an in-line system. This is a device that
contains many cells with pool water passing through it. Salt (sodium chloride) is added to the pool water to a level of 2000
to 6000 ppm depending on the manufacturer. Low voltage DC electricity is applied to the cells and the unit produces
chlorine gas, hydrogen gas, sodium ions, hydroxide ions. However, there is no membrane or separator and the direct mixing
of these products result in the formation of sodium hypochlorite instead of the evolution of elemental chlorine gas. The
sodium hypochlorite quickly makes hypochlorous acid (HOCl – the killing form of chlorine) and hypochlorite ion (OCl-).
The hydrogen gas releases into the atmosphere as it bubbles up into the pool water. Very little of the hydrogen is in the
ionic form in the water. The hydroxide stays in the pool water and will slightly raise pH.

Many industry people and some chemists are of the opinion that in-line chlorine generators will not change the pH of the
water. In theory this is true. The logic is that you start with a neutral salt (NaCl) split it into sodium and chlorine and put it all back into the water. However, the hydrogen gasses off which would have offset the hydroxide production if it stayed in the water. But since the hydrogen gas left the water the hydroxide will raise pH – once the TA is balanced the pH will also level off around 7.8.

The other questions seemed to be regarding caustic soda and why it is in sodium hypochlorite.

First, let me say that if you make sodium hypochlorite and do not use any caustic, your solution will have a shelf life of a
couple of days. Second, let me explain how sodium hypochlorite is made. Start with a solution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) and bubble chlorine gas through it. This makes sodium hypochlorite , sodium chloride, water and heat.

Here is the reaction:
2 NaOH + Cl2 –> NaOCl + NaCl + H2O + Heat

One the basis of molecular weight, 1 lb chlorine reacts with 1.128 lb caustic soda to produce 1.05 lb of sodium hypochlorite and 0.83 lb of sodium chloride. In practice, an excess of caustic soda is used as a stabilizer. A 10% sodium hypochlorite solution has about 10 grams per liter excess caustic soda. A 12% sodium hypochlorite solution has about 12 grams per liter excess caustic soda. A 15% sodium hypochlorite solution has about 15 grams per liter excess caustic soda.
My primary purposes for this lengthy explanation is to show you that the chlorine generator (salt generator, hypochlorite
generator) is not exactly the same as the industrial versions and that they make pure, elemental chlorine gas that is then
captured and stored under pressure in large steel cylinders. Pool chlorine generators make elemental chlorine gas too but,
because it is made in the water, it instantly makes hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ion. They do not make sodium
hypochlorite.

Methods of Operation

There are normally two ways a salt generator works. One is by varying the amperage to the cell. Since cell life is generally
based on how long the cell is in operation and not how much chlorine is produced, this is not always the best method.
The second way is to keep the amperage on its highest setting and vary the length of time it is on via a timer. The timer can be internal or external or both. For example, in a pool of 30,000 gallons; the filter may be running 24/7. The salt-water
chlorine generator could be on a separate external timer to only operate from 9:00 pm to 9:00 am. The internal timer on the unit could be adjusted to fine tune the production of chlorine. NOTE: A salt-water chlorine generator should NEVER be on when there is no flow / pump is off.

Based upon calculations of one pound of chlorine per 10,000 gallons = 12 ppm; the unit being on 12 hours per day, the
setting on the unit would need only be dialed in at about 25% production to achieve 1 ppm. In reality, I would start at 25% production the and adjust by observing the swim load, sun, heat, rain, animals etc.

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Corona Discharge Ozone Generators and how they Work

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

For over 100 years ozone has acted as a sanitizer and germ killer in the Commercial market; during that time it has grown in popularity to help sanitize hot tubs. It reduces the amount of chemicals used and allows customers to save time and money maintaining their hot tub water.

Beth Hamil, vice president of corporate compliance at DEL Ozone, notes, “If the ozone generator is sized properly, the halogen chemical reduction is 60 to 90 percent.” This means consumers can save a substantial amount of money on chemicals.

Ozone is created when oxygen molecules are split by a high-energy electrical discharge resulting in two individual oxygen atoms. Those individual oxygen atoms unite with remaining oxygen molecules to produce a three-atom molecule of ozone gas. The weak bond holding ozone’s third oxygen atom causes the molecule to be extremely unstable and thus, a very effective oxidizer.

An oxidation reaction occurs upon any collision between an ozone molecule and an inorganic or organic molecule or substance such as bacteria, viruses, fungi and algae, where the oxygen atom held by the weak bond splits off and only oxygen is left behind. So, ozone is actually a gas manufactured by the method described above, created inside a chamber, housed in various styles of containers.

But of course, it’s not quite that simple. According to Angelo Mazzei, chairman of Mazzei Injector Company that manufactures injectors that help the ozone mix with the water, the most difficult part of the ozone sanitation process is getting the ozone into the water. “Everybody talks about the ozonator, but they don’t talk about how to get the ozone gas into the water. An ozone generator is absolutely worthless unless the gas gets into the solution,” he says.

“The real dilemma is [getting] that O3 [ozone] molecule into the water, because as long as it’s in the bubble it comes through the jets and it pops up and that’s when you smell the ozone. [ed note: This is called off-gassing.] It hasn’t done anything yet because it has to be in the water to do something. Once it’s in the water, you’re not going to smell the ozone gas because it is dissolved in the water,” he adds.

There are two ways for the gas to enter the water according to Hamil. “One, ozone gas is pulled in through the venturi air suction in the spas jet system (one or more of the spas jets may be utilized), or two, it is pulled in through a dedicated ozone injector that is installed in the spa’s main return line,” she says. “Any manufacturer who offers an ozone system on their spa lines (either factory installed or made ‘ozone-ready’ for after-market installation) must pass a strict ozone off-gas test (under UL Standard 1563 5th Edition, 35.8.2, maximum 0.1 PPM). Therefore, ozone off-gas should never be present at the water surface level of any spa.”

Once the ozone is in the water, it is ready to work. “When it’s in the water, it is looking for something to grab on to. The O3 actually attaches on to another molecule, it strips one of the O’s off and it becomes O2 and it oxidizes organics,” Mazzei says.

According to Jennifer Engelmeier, manager of aftermaket spa sales, and Charles Sterling, director of marketing, both at DEL Ozone, “In order to be effective at sanitizing water, ozone must come into direct contact with organic and inorganic contaminants. The higher the ozone concentration, the more likely it is to be dissolved in the water. When ozone is properly injected and dissolved into water, it is environmentally safe and is the most powerful antimicrobial agent available today. Ozone is 200 times more effective than chlorine, acting 900 times faster than its chemical counterparts at destroying unwanted organic and inorganic contaminants.”

HOT TUB USE

“Retrofitting an ozone generator on a spa is quite simple. If the spa has been manufactured ‘ozone-ready,’ there is already an ozone-supply tubing and an electrical receptacle installed,” says Hamil. “If it is not ‘ozone-ready,’ then the consumer or tech can tap into the spa’s air line or add an injector in the spa’s return line for the ozone gas supply. Ozone generators can be purchased in any number of voltages and any number of specialty plug configurations.”

There are two types of ozonators used in hot tubs. One style produces ozone using an ultraviolet light, which oxygen passes through, immediately separating the atoms. The second style produces ozone by a process called Corona Discharge, or CD. This is actually a chamber inside the container that creates little electrical charges to split the atoms. The CD method has an operating life of about five years while the ultraviolet style lasts about one year.

One common thing that service techs, retailers and consumers should be aware of is that all ozone systems need to be refreshed when output levels begin to decrease. Service techs can test these numbers with a gaseous ozone test kit. Hamil indicates that “All ozone systems need to be ‘refreshed’ every couple of years. For the UV ozone system this means changing the lamp; for a CD system this means changing the electrode.”

HELPING THE CONSUMER

When customers are looking for a hot tub or an ozonator, it is important to let them know what is available and how it can benefit them in the long run. Mike Cook, owner of Ace Spas located in the DC metro area, has run a successful hot tub repair business for over ten years and recommends ozonators to all of his customers.

“With the use of an ozone system, the spa takes care of itself when [customers are] away on vacation so [they] don’t need someone to check in on [their] spa,” Cook says.

“Many systems work 24 hours a day, so water always stays clear. [Recommend that consumers] look for spas that have an automatic default on them, so that when [users] turn the jets on the ozonator automatically goes off. This is programmed so that people who are sensitive to ozone gas will not have a problem if the spa is experiencing off-gassing.”

Paul Derence, sales and service manager at Hot Water Productions in Colorado, adds, “I feel that consumers are looking for the simplest, most environmentally friendly way to take care of their spa and I think that ozone does just that. For years, people interested in owning a spa are turned away because [they] somehow were brainwashed to believe that spas are difficult to maintain.”

With ozone systems, as mentioned previously, there is a reduction in chemical usage since ozone gas is an oxidizer. David Priano, owner of Priano’s Billiards & Backyards in Dalton Garden, Idaho, also adds, “Many [consumers] are under the impression that ozone will do everything that is needed chemically in the spa. I let them know that they still need to do the standard mineral balancing on the spa. Ozone does not take the place of that part of the chemistry.” Ozonators can be paired with all hot water chemical types too, such as mineral and bromine systems. However, since not every hot tub is alike, it may be best to look at the type of spa the customer has or is wanting and see if an ozone system is the best fit.

“With some spas that have advanced filtration systems, 24-hour circulation, ozone … is more effective. I’ve seen some spas that have the ozone return located 10 inches from the water level, so the ozone has a high gas off at the surface. Ozone is …. [more] effective when covering a larger surface area, which happens when it comes from near the bottom,” says Derence. “So I think it really depends on the brand of the spa, the engineering aspects behind the spa plumbing along with the filtration, as well as the amount of time that the spa circulates to really maximize the total benefit of ozone.”

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Water Issues & Solutions

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Water Issues & Solutions
If you have Cloudy water, you most likely have Excessive organic contaminants or possibly even lack sanitizer. You should treat your spa with a good quality shock from a spa store. Make sure if you are using a chlorine system that you do not use Tri-Chlor as it can damage parts and void your warranty. If you are using Baqua Spa you will need to use specific Baqua Spa Shock and adjust sanitizer levels accordingly. Most indoor units utilize Bromine since the chemical does not off gas – if so, you should use non-chlorine shock.

Many times you will open the cover to discover Cloudy Murky Water. If there is no distinct odor it may very well be simply Dissolved chemical solids. You can use any easily obtained water clarifier to help remove small particles; however, you must not exceed the recommended dose or it will make things worse. You should always test and confirm pH is balanced or total alkalinity is incorrect. Test total alkalinity and pH easily with simple test dip strips. They can purchased anywhere. Remember, your Alkalinity and PH are linked so their readings should always be close. You can Correct both with pH increaser or pH decreaser. If they are too far apart you can purchase and dose it with Alkalinity increaser. They do not make alkalinity decreaser but ph decreser will bring your Alkaline levels down.

Many locales have Calcium too high (hard water). If that is the case use a sequestering agent weekly or just replace some of the hard water with softer water.

You can not believe how many people Service Calls related to Dirty filters. You should Clean your filter with filter cartridge cleaner bi-weekly and if you are up to it – give it a good wash with your garden hose every 5 uses. You will be suprised to learn that filter will last 3 years.

Chalky, white scale deposits are indicative of Mineral deposits in water. You should Use a sequestering agent. Check water balance and adjust as necessary.

Clear green water tells us you have High iron or copper content. You can purchase a sequestering agent at any local spa store.

Cloudy green water can be associated with Low alkalinity levels as well. Test and if low Use pH or alkalinity increaser.

Low sanitizer level can be addressed easily. Test sanitizer level, shock with non-chlorine shock

Brown water is from High iron or manganese level. Use a sequestering agent obtained from a spa store.

Chlorine odor can be from Chloramines (combined chlorine level) is high or if your PH is out of whack. Shock with non-chlorine shock

Eye/skin irritation from Organic contaminants, chloramines, or pH out of balance is common so Shock with shock. Test and adjust pH level.

Foaming is caused by many things by typically it is due to a High concentration of chemicals due to evaporation of good water and build-up of body oils, cosmetics and other contaminants. Use foam reducer. Shock treat with non-chlorine shock. Use enzyme reducer weekly as part of regular maintenance

Pitting of metal fixtures is common due to LOW pH. Test and adjust pH and total alkalinity by adding pH up or
Total alkalinity increaser as it is probably too low.

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Alkalinity in Pools – Why’s it So Important and How to Control It

Friday, November 13th, 2009

Alkalinity in pools is an extremely important topic as it’s what helps prevent sudden pH changes. Total alkalinity is a measure of alkaline substances in this case, ionic compounds, that act as buffers that resist pH change.

Don’t worry, this is just a bunch of chemistry and scientific mumbo jumbo that you really don’t need to know. What is important to understand is that alkalinity helps stabilize the pH balance in your pool, and keeping it within normal range can save you a lot of headaches as well as solve a lot of problems.

The recommended range for a swimming pool’s total alkalinity is between 80 and 120 parts per million. Any good pool testing kit will let you determine the range, and it’s important to test often.

So, when it comes to alkalinity there are really only 3 states in can be in: Too High, Too Low and Just Right.

Low Alkalinity
With low alkalinity your pH levels can swing back and forth between too high, and too low. It’s not uncommon for these numbers to shift drastically causing an unbalance in your pools pH.

Some problems that are associated with this include:
-Chlorine inefficiency
-Metal Corrosion
-Pool Staining
-Scale

You can easily raise a pool’s alkalinity by using a chemical called sodium bicarbonate which is, baking soda. The recommended dosage is 1.5 pounds of sodium bicarbonate per 10,000 gallons of water. If you’re unsure how much water you have you can find a good estimate by using this formula:

Average Width x Average Length x Average Depth x 7.5

Add the amount you need with your pump running, to make sure the chemicals are mixing nicely. Do this once every 4 days until your alkalinity becomes stabilized.

High Alkalinity
With high alkalinity your pH will generally be much higher than normal as well. A good sign that you’re dealing with high alkalinity is having cloudy swimming pool water.

Other problems include:
-Reduced pool circulation
-Clogged Filter
-Rough Surfaces

Since your pool is too alkaline the best way to correct this problem is by using an acid. For swimming pools we either use muriatic or sodium bisulfate. You can purchase either at any swimming pool and spa store.

The best approach I’ve personally found with this is to first begin by adding enough acid to bring your pH balance down to 7.0. Then, let the pool sit for awhile until the pH climbs back up to around 7.2. Repeat this process until your pool alkalinity seems to have stabilized, but be sure to follow the directions on whichever acid product you decide to go with so as not to add too much acid.

Alkalinity in pools is an important part of swimming pool chemistry. Poor pool maintenance can lead to sudden shifts, but that’s probably not your fault. The truth is, so called pool “experts” will give you bad advice in order to make you buy their chemicals and equipment, when really it isn’t that hard to take care of a pool.

That’s why I recommend investing in a swimming pool maintenance guide. These guides take the guess work out of maintaining your pool. You can literally save thousands of dollars each year follow the advice and directions found within these guides.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frank_Surgoat

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Closing Your Above Ground Swimming Pool

Friday, November 13th, 2009

After a great long summer of enjoying your above ground swimming pool, it’s sad to say, but it’s time to close it. The kids are back in school and the night time is just a little cooler. Closing your above ground pool is easy. I would recommend having somebody help you out.

First you need to make sure you have all your supplies ready:

1. A pool cover
2. A cable and winch to secure the pool cover
3. Winter Chemicals
4. Winter plugs
5. A car wash sponge

There are multiple ways to close a pool but here is the easiest. Drain your pool 6 inches below your swimming pool’s skimmer. Add the winter chemicals to your pool water and make sure you spread them all around the pool. Note: it’s best to buy a winter kit that way you don’t need to measure out your chemicals. Once the chemicals have been added slowly lay the pool cover across the entire pool. Let the cover sit on top of the water and over the sides (you don’t want the cover to be taunt). Now thread your cable in and out of the grommets per the cover instructions and tighten with the cable winch to secure it. Now that you have the cover on place the car wash sponge in the skimmer box in case it fills with water over the winter and freezes. Now on your filter system remove all of the plugs from your filter and place them in the pump basket for a safe place and bring your pump indoors for the winter. That’s pretty simple and quick instructions.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Gio

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What You Should Know About Swimming Pool Drains and Entrapment

Friday, November 13th, 2009

Swimming pool drains have received a lot of attention lately; with warmer weather and the opening of public pools approaching. The talk concerns the new federal standards enacted with the passing of “The Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act” , which became effective on December 19, 2008. The major changes resulting from the act are the requirement of barriers to prevent access to small children and that the swimming pool drains on all public pools be equipped with anti-entrapment devices or systems. Though the law applies only to public pools; it is highly recommended that the same protective measures be taken with residential pools and spas. For those who may be unfamiliar with the dangers of entrapment and the preventative methods; we’ve provided answers to some commonly asked questions.

What Is Entrapment?
Answer: Entrapment involves someone being held against a pool or spa drain by vacuum pressure from the pool pump. Pool water is circulated by being pulled through the main drain, pushed through the filter, and back to the pool through return lines. Many older pools and spas were built or made with only one drain. When these single drains are cover by parts of the body or if a persons hair or limbs are somehow inserted into the drain; a powerful suction, or vortex is created. The suction can be strong enough to prevent a child, or an adult, from freeing themselves. There have also been instances where sitting on the drain and having their intestines sucked out by the pressure have disemboweled children.

What measures can be taken to prevent entrapment?
Answer: The first step of prevention is to have the main drains split with dual anti-vortex drain covers and at least 36 inches from center of sump to center of sump.
The law now makes it a crime to sell or install pools or spas that are not equipped with dual main drains and anti-entrapment drain covers. In addition, all public pools, regardless of age, must meet those same requirements or have other anti-entrapment systems or devices installed.

What Are the Options for Pools With Only One Drain?
Answer: There are several compliance options for older pools with single drains.

* Cut out the bottom of the pool and re-plumb the line to install split drains with at 36 inches from center of sump to center of sump
* Install a gravity drain system
* Install a suction limiting vent system
* Install an automatic pump shutoff
* Disable the main drain

What is the best option for my pool?
Answer: Re-plumbing the main drains or installing a gravity drain are viable options, but the high cost of either of these repairs make them much less practical for residential pools than the other systems. Disabling the drain, while not as costly, would greatly reduce the rate of circulation, unless changes are made to the pump and filter system. This leaves us with two feasible and reasonably priced options.

* Suction Limiting Vent System (SVRS)-This system involves the installation of an atmospheric vent on the suction side of the pump, which opens and introduces air into the suction lines when there is a sudden increase in vacuum pressure. There are several manufacturers of these systems including Vac-Alert and Hayward, with prices ranging from $500 to $800.
* Automatic Pump Shutoff-This is an electrical device that monitors the system and automatically shuts off power to the pump when there is a sudden increase in vacuum pressure. There are several manufacturers of this equipment and prices are about the same as the SVRS systems. There are also some devices available that combine both types of systems.

Hopefully we’ve helped shed some light on this vitally important issue. As I mentioned earlier, the new law currently applies only to public pools. However, the very real danger of entrapment makes this an issue you can’t afford to ignore. As a precaution; I recommend the use of more than one type of device or system and the devices should be tested periodically to insure proper operation.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Glenn_Whitehead

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How to Eliminate Cloudy Swimming Pool Water

Monday, November 9th, 2009

One of the most common maintenance issues for swimming pool owners is cloudy water. This can be caused by a variety of conditions, but is usually easy to correct. The possible causes and solutions for cloudy swimming pool water include:

  • Improper ph levels-One of the most important aspects of swimming pool maintenance is testing and maintaining proper water chemistry. The optimal ph level is between 7.2 and 7.6 ppm. When the levels are out of this range; the chlorine cannot work as effectively as it should in sanitizing the water. Taking the proper steps to correct the chemical balance is the first step you should take in eliminating cloudy water
  • Unfilterable Debris-Some particles of waste and debris are so small or fine that they cannot be trapped in the filtration process. Some common sources of this type of debris are: sun screens and oils, makeup products, and hair products. This can usually be eliminated by backwashing and adding fresh water. Once you are sure you’ve got the proper chemical balance, this is a logical next step.
  • Poor Filtration or Circulation-To maintain water clarity, it is essential that all components of the filtration system are working properly. Clogged or dirty filters and worn or defective pump and filter components can lead to poor circulation and cloudy water. It is important to regularly clean or backwash the filter and inspect the mechanical parts of the system to insure water clarity.
  • High Calcium Levels-This brings us back to proper water chemistry. Calcium hardness is important in protecting the surface of the pool, but high levels can lead to cloudy water. This can be corrected by taking steps to bring the water chemistry within the acceptable range and by adding a water clarifier.

As is the case with other aspects of swimming pool maintenance, the best way to avoid problems with cloudy water is keep up with the proper maintenance of the chemicals and equipment on a regular basis. A little work now can help prevent the need for a big job later.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Glenn_Whitehead

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How To Find And Repair Most Swimming Pool Leaks

Monday, November 9th, 2009

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It’s not uncommon for pool owners to notice that water seems to be leaking out of their pool after opening it for the year. But where is the leak coming from? Let’s take a look and see how to find and repair swimming pool leaks.

First of all, you have to make sure that it really is a leak in the first place. What do you think is a leak, may be something else. There are actually three main causes of water loss from swimming pools and they are:

1. Swimming pool plumbing leaks

2. Swimming pool shell leaks

3. Normal evaporation or excessive splash

So before you go any further let’s rule out number three in the list above. It’s important to do this, because actually the sun can evaporate quite a bit of water from a pool on a daily basis without your realizing it, and swimmers can splash a lot of water out of a pool too..

To find out for sure if the water loss is due to evaporation or not, take a fairly large container and fill it with water and place it on the first step of your pool. Then remove enough water from the container so that the water level in the pool and in the container is exactly the same. Now leave the container there for a couple of days to see what happens with no one using the pool in the meantime. If after a couple of days the water level in the pool has gone down, and the water level in the container has gone down the same amount, then you know that the water loss you are experiencing is most likely just evaporation due to the sun.On the other hand, if the water in the pool has gone down farther than the water in the container, then most likely there is indeed a leak in your pool somewhere.

To find a pool leak, the first place to inspect is around your filter and pump. Do you notice any water spots or damp areas there? If so, try to trace back where the water is coming from. Very often, it will be a connection on one of the pipes in this particular area.You may need to turn on the pump for a while and observe it to see if any leaks develop while everything is running. If the leak begins to show, and you feel comfortable with repairing the pool plumbing, then this is a job that you may wish to do yourself. However, for most people it will be a job that is best left to a pool professional.

If no obvious leaks can be found in the plumbing, then perhaps the leak is in the shell of the pool itself. And in this case, it’s almost always advisable to leave any of this type of work up to a well-qualified professional.

As you can see, finding and repairing swimming pool leaks is usually just a matter of eliminating possible causes until you find the real problem. Once the problem is found, your final decision is whether to fix it yourself or pay someone to do it instead.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Thad_Pickering

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How to Eliminate Cloudy Swimming Pool Water

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

One of the most common maintenance issues for swimming pool owners is cloudy water. This can be caused by a variety of conditions, but is usually easy to correct. The possible causes and solutions for cloudy swimming pool water include:

  • Improper ph levels-One of the most important aspects of swimming pool maintenance is testing and maintaining proper water chemistry. The optimal ph level is between 7.2 and 7.6 ppm. When the levels are out of this range; the chlorine cannot work as effectively as it should in sanitizing the water. Taking the proper steps to correct the chemical balance is the first step you should take in eliminating cloudy water
  • Unfilterable Debris-Some particles of waste and debris are so small or fine that they cannot be trapped in the filtration process. Some common sources of this type of debris are: sun screens and oils, makeup products, and hair products. This can usually be eliminated by backwashing and adding fresh water. Once you are sure you’ve got the proper chemical balance, this is a logical next step.
  • Poor Filtration or Circulation-To maintain water clarity, it is essential that all components of the filtration system are working properly. Clogged or dirty filters and worn or defective pump and filter components can lead to poor circulation and cloudy water. It is important to regularly clean or backwash the filter and inspect the mechanical parts of the system to insure water clarity.
  • High Calcium Levels-This brings us back to proper water chemistry. Calcium hardness is important in protecting the surface of the pool, but high levels can lead to cloudy water. This can be corrected by taking steps to bring the water chemistry within the acceptable range and by adding a water clarifier.

As is the case with other aspects of swimming pool maintenance, the best way to avoid problems with cloudy water is keep up with the proper maintenance of the chemicals and equipment on a regular basis. A little work now can help prevent the need for a big job later.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Glenn_Whitehead

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How to Drain Your Swimming Pool (3 Easy Steps!)

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

Your swimming pool is a central part of your family’s relaxation and recreational activities, so you want to keep it a clean and inviting place season after season. One of the important parts of pool ownership is learning how to drain swimming properly.

A part of your regular swimming pool care and maintenance, you are already following proper chemical guidelines to keep the water safe and clean. However, it is still generally recommended that you drain your swimming pool every three years. Over time the chemicals lose their effectiveness in working with your pool water, so it is a good idea to start with a clean slate around every three years.

The process of how to drain swimming pool may seem like a big task, but the good news is there is an easy and cost effective way to get the job done. You don’t need to hire a professional pool care service to do it. Using a device called a submersible sump pump, that is found at most hardware or home improvement stores, will save you a lot of money.

Steps for How to Drain Your Swimming Pool

1.    Connect the submersible sump pump to the sewage drain hole. Your home’s sewer ports found next to the house and are covered by round plastic caps.

2.    Once you have connected the sump pump’s hose to the sewer port, lower the pump itself into the deepest are of your swimming pool, then turn it on. The pump will starting sending the pool water through the hose and into your home’s sewer port, to be reused by the city.

3.    The emptying of your pool will take several hours. Ensure the process is monitored, so that you can turn the pump off once all of the water is drained, otherwise you risk damaging the pump. For this reason, do not allow a pump to run overnight.

Once your swimming pool has been drained, clean out any debris that remains. Then refill your pool as soon as possible, to avoid pool distortion from groundwater surrounding it. Following these simple steps for how to drain swimming pool, will ensure your pool’s water is in great shape for your swimming pleasure!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_W._Duff

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