This is very different from “it’s getting a little bit warm”. It could have the same cause, but a heating element is like a light bulb, it either works or it doesn’t. If there’s absolutely no heat the first thing to test is the heating element. IS IT GETTING ELECTRICITY? (Hint, if you have a 240v heater, you must test for 240 volts directly at the two terminals of the heater. Testing from one terminal to ground will give a proper reading even if the element is bad).
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The element is getting electricity.
If the element is getting electricity the next test is an amp test. If you don’t know how to perform an amp test “call a qualified spa technician. Generally, a 120v heater should pull 12.5 amps and a 240 volt heater should pull 25 amps. If you’re getting proper amperage draw, move on to “it’s getting a little bit warm”, below. If you’re not getting any amperage draw, you have a bad heater element.
A perfect match is not always possible, and some differences are just fine. Some of the acceptable differences are;
Difference in physical length. A shorter element is ok, as long as the other specifications match up. A longer element may not fit the existing housing.
Slight difference in kilowatt rating. A difference in “kw” rating of 1/2kw is perfectly acceptable. Frequently, a 6kw element will be replaced with a 5.5kw element.
The two most important things are;
The element attaches to the heater housing must be the same (some unusual or obsolete elements may require a different element along with an adapter). If your heater element is threaded, the picture below should give some guidance on sizing and measuring for replacements.
The voltage rating must be the same. An element rated for 120v only, cannot be used in place of a 240v element, however, an element rated for 240v can generally be use in place of a 120v element.
The element IS NOT getting electricity
If the element is not getting any power. Using the volt meter, start at the heating element and follow the wiring back until you find the switch or relay that isn’t allowing electricity to pass through. If power for the element is fed through a relay and the relay isn’t closing, it then must be determined why, or what switch is preventing it. The next step is to determine if the switch is truly bad, or if it’s just doing it’s job (a high limit switch may be cutting off due to some other problem that’s causing the water at it’s sensing point to over heat).
Some of the many possibilities for a good switch to appear broken are (and the apparent culprit);
Low water flow (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
A dirty filter (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
A clogged tube feeding a pressure switch (pressure switch)
Magnetic door interlock misaligned (door interlock)
Heating element shorting out into the water (GFCI tripping)
If all of this doesn’t seem to make sense, you feel you need a lot more information or you don’t feel comfortable in attempting this type of diagnosis or repair, “call My Spa Guy” at 888-MySpaGuy or visit them on the web for more technical help. www.MySpaGuy.us