Salt Generators and How they Work

July 21st, 2010

The Chlorine Generation Process:

Most of the packaged chlorine available today is manufactured by the salt process. There are three types of electrolytic
cells: diaphragm, mercury and membrane. There are other methods of production, which are designed to fit the raw material containing the chlorine ion. These methods include the electrolysis of hydrochloric acid, the salt process, and the HCl oxidation process.

Electrochemical Cell

The electrochemical cell is composed of an anode, a cathode, and a separator which isolates the liquids contained in the
anode chamber and the cathode chamber. The function of the separator is to isolate the two chambers while allowing the
migration of selected ions from the anode chamber to the cathode chamber. Brine composed of sodium chloride and water
is introduced into the anode chamber where oxidation of the sodium chloride takes place. Chlorine gas is released at the
anode. The sodium ions are attracted to the negatively charged cathode and transported through the separator. Ideally, all of the chloride would be contained on the anode side of the cell.

Water is reduced at the cathode and hydrogen gas is evolved. The remaining hydroxide ion combines with the sodium ion
to form sodium hydroxide solution (caustic), which exits the cathode chamber. Ideally, all of the hydroxide ions would be
contained on the cathode side of the cell.

Membrane Cell

In the membrane process, the anolyte (the solution in the anode chamber) and the catholyte (the solution in the cathode
chamber) are separated by a cation exchange membrane that selectively transmits sodium ions but suppresses the migration of hydroxyl ions from the catholyte to the anolyte. This produces a catholyte effluent with a strong caustic soda solution with a very low sodium chloride content. The advantage of the membrane process are its energy efficiency and its ability to produce, without any harmful effect on the environment, a strong, high-quality solution of caustic soda (NaOH).

The overall chemical reaction is:
NaCl + H2O + electric current –> NaOH + 1/2 Cl2 + 1/2 H2

The two reactions that make up this overall reaction are:

The principal anode reaction:
2Cl- –> Cl2 + 2e-

Chlorine formed at the anode saturates the anolyte and an equilibrium is established as follows:
Cl2 + (OH)- –> Cl- + HOCl
HOCl < --> H+ + OCl7

This shows that the chlorine is formed and then makes the chloride ion (Cl-), and the hypochlorous acid (HOCl), which
further dissociates in equilibrium to hypochlorite ion (OCl-) and hydrogen ion (H+).

The principal cathode reaction is: 2H+ + 2OH- + 2e- –> H2 + 2OH

The hydrogen ion (H+) present in the H2O in the catholyte evolves at the cathode as hydrogen gas (H2), leaving behind the hydroxyl or hydroxide ion (OH-) in the catholyte. Because chlorine has evolved at the anode, the sodium ion (Na+) is free to join the hydroxide ion (OH-) as it migrates from the anolyte chamber to the catholyte chamber. The porous diaphragm is used to inhibit the migration of the OH- ions from the cathode to the anode.

Ideally, we produce pure hydrogen gas, pure chlorine gas and pure sodium hydroxide in this process.

Mercury Cell

The mercury cell has two essential parts: (1) the elctrolyzer and (2) the amalgam decomposer. In the elctrolyzer, a salt
solution is electrolyzed, making use of a special anode and a flowing mercury cathode. Chlorine gas is liberated at the
anode, and sodium is deposited at the surface of the flowing mercury cathode, in which it dissolves to form a liquid
amalgam. The amalgam flows to the decomposer where it is decomposed with water to form sodium hydroxide and
hydrogen gas. The mercury is then recovered and reused.

In the 1970s, mercury cell operations in the U.S. were found to be discharging effluents containing mercury in excess of the safe limits established by EPA. Some installations were shut down. Those that were not shut down improved the process to the point where the effluent mercury level was below the maximum allowed. There are 91 mercury cell chlorine plants in the world producing more than 11,000 tons of chlorine per day.

The swimming pool industry had a few companies that used a brine solution with a membrane. I am not sure that any of
them are in business today. The one I remember was from Unichlor which grew out of Pinch A Penney in Florida. These
units, very effective, and I have still seen them around. Some operational, some not.

Most chlorine generators in the swimming pool industry today use what is called an in-line system. This is a device that
contains many cells with pool water passing through it. Salt (sodium chloride) is added to the pool water to a level of 2000
to 6000 ppm depending on the manufacturer. Low voltage DC electricity is applied to the cells and the unit produces
chlorine gas, hydrogen gas, sodium ions, hydroxide ions. However, there is no membrane or separator and the direct mixing
of these products result in the formation of sodium hypochlorite instead of the evolution of elemental chlorine gas. The
sodium hypochlorite quickly makes hypochlorous acid (HOCl – the killing form of chlorine) and hypochlorite ion (OCl-).
The hydrogen gas releases into the atmosphere as it bubbles up into the pool water. Very little of the hydrogen is in the
ionic form in the water. The hydroxide stays in the pool water and will slightly raise pH.

Many industry people and some chemists are of the opinion that in-line chlorine generators will not change the pH of the
water. In theory this is true. The logic is that you start with a neutral salt (NaCl) split it into sodium and chlorine and put it all back into the water. However, the hydrogen gasses off which would have offset the hydroxide production if it stayed in the water. But since the hydrogen gas left the water the hydroxide will raise pH – once the TA is balanced the pH will also level off around 7.8.

The other questions seemed to be regarding caustic soda and why it is in sodium hypochlorite.

First, let me say that if you make sodium hypochlorite and do not use any caustic, your solution will have a shelf life of a
couple of days. Second, let me explain how sodium hypochlorite is made. Start with a solution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) and bubble chlorine gas through it. This makes sodium hypochlorite , sodium chloride, water and heat.

Here is the reaction:
2 NaOH + Cl2 –> NaOCl + NaCl + H2O + Heat

One the basis of molecular weight, 1 lb chlorine reacts with 1.128 lb caustic soda to produce 1.05 lb of sodium hypochlorite and 0.83 lb of sodium chloride. In practice, an excess of caustic soda is used as a stabilizer. A 10% sodium hypochlorite solution has about 10 grams per liter excess caustic soda. A 12% sodium hypochlorite solution has about 12 grams per liter excess caustic soda. A 15% sodium hypochlorite solution has about 15 grams per liter excess caustic soda.
My primary purposes for this lengthy explanation is to show you that the chlorine generator (salt generator, hypochlorite
generator) is not exactly the same as the industrial versions and that they make pure, elemental chlorine gas that is then
captured and stored under pressure in large steel cylinders. Pool chlorine generators make elemental chlorine gas too but,
because it is made in the water, it instantly makes hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ion. They do not make sodium
hypochlorite.

Methods of Operation

There are normally two ways a salt generator works. One is by varying the amperage to the cell. Since cell life is generally
based on how long the cell is in operation and not how much chlorine is produced, this is not always the best method.
The second way is to keep the amperage on its highest setting and vary the length of time it is on via a timer. The timer can be internal or external or both. For example, in a pool of 30,000 gallons; the filter may be running 24/7. The salt-water
chlorine generator could be on a separate external timer to only operate from 9:00 pm to 9:00 am. The internal timer on the unit could be adjusted to fine tune the production of chlorine. NOTE: A salt-water chlorine generator should NEVER be on when there is no flow / pump is off.

Based upon calculations of one pound of chlorine per 10,000 gallons = 12 ppm; the unit being on 12 hours per day, the
setting on the unit would need only be dialed in at about 25% production to achieve 1 ppm. In reality, I would start at 25% production the and adjust by observing the swim load, sun, heat, rain, animals etc.

Posted in Pools | No Comments »

Corona Discharge Ozone Generators and how they Work

July 21st, 2010

For over 100 years ozone has acted as a sanitizer and germ killer in the Commercial market; during that time it has grown in popularity to help sanitize hot tubs. It reduces the amount of chemicals used and allows customers to save time and money maintaining their hot tub water.

Beth Hamil, vice president of corporate compliance at DEL Ozone, notes, “If the ozone generator is sized properly, the halogen chemical reduction is 60 to 90 percent.” This means consumers can save a substantial amount of money on chemicals.

Ozone is created when oxygen molecules are split by a high-energy electrical discharge resulting in two individual oxygen atoms. Those individual oxygen atoms unite with remaining oxygen molecules to produce a three-atom molecule of ozone gas. The weak bond holding ozone’s third oxygen atom causes the molecule to be extremely unstable and thus, a very effective oxidizer.

An oxidation reaction occurs upon any collision between an ozone molecule and an inorganic or organic molecule or substance such as bacteria, viruses, fungi and algae, where the oxygen atom held by the weak bond splits off and only oxygen is left behind. So, ozone is actually a gas manufactured by the method described above, created inside a chamber, housed in various styles of containers.

But of course, it’s not quite that simple. According to Angelo Mazzei, chairman of Mazzei Injector Company that manufactures injectors that help the ozone mix with the water, the most difficult part of the ozone sanitation process is getting the ozone into the water. “Everybody talks about the ozonator, but they don’t talk about how to get the ozone gas into the water. An ozone generator is absolutely worthless unless the gas gets into the solution,” he says.

“The real dilemma is [getting] that O3 [ozone] molecule into the water, because as long as it’s in the bubble it comes through the jets and it pops up and that’s when you smell the ozone. [ed note: This is called off-gassing.] It hasn’t done anything yet because it has to be in the water to do something. Once it’s in the water, you’re not going to smell the ozone gas because it is dissolved in the water,” he adds.

There are two ways for the gas to enter the water according to Hamil. “One, ozone gas is pulled in through the venturi air suction in the spas jet system (one or more of the spas jets may be utilized), or two, it is pulled in through a dedicated ozone injector that is installed in the spa’s main return line,” she says. “Any manufacturer who offers an ozone system on their spa lines (either factory installed or made ‘ozone-ready’ for after-market installation) must pass a strict ozone off-gas test (under UL Standard 1563 5th Edition, 35.8.2, maximum 0.1 PPM). Therefore, ozone off-gas should never be present at the water surface level of any spa.”

Once the ozone is in the water, it is ready to work. “When it’s in the water, it is looking for something to grab on to. The O3 actually attaches on to another molecule, it strips one of the O’s off and it becomes O2 and it oxidizes organics,” Mazzei says.

According to Jennifer Engelmeier, manager of aftermaket spa sales, and Charles Sterling, director of marketing, both at DEL Ozone, “In order to be effective at sanitizing water, ozone must come into direct contact with organic and inorganic contaminants. The higher the ozone concentration, the more likely it is to be dissolved in the water. When ozone is properly injected and dissolved into water, it is environmentally safe and is the most powerful antimicrobial agent available today. Ozone is 200 times more effective than chlorine, acting 900 times faster than its chemical counterparts at destroying unwanted organic and inorganic contaminants.”

HOT TUB USE

“Retrofitting an ozone generator on a spa is quite simple. If the spa has been manufactured ‘ozone-ready,’ there is already an ozone-supply tubing and an electrical receptacle installed,” says Hamil. “If it is not ‘ozone-ready,’ then the consumer or tech can tap into the spa’s air line or add an injector in the spa’s return line for the ozone gas supply. Ozone generators can be purchased in any number of voltages and any number of specialty plug configurations.”

There are two types of ozonators used in hot tubs. One style produces ozone using an ultraviolet light, which oxygen passes through, immediately separating the atoms. The second style produces ozone by a process called Corona Discharge, or CD. This is actually a chamber inside the container that creates little electrical charges to split the atoms. The CD method has an operating life of about five years while the ultraviolet style lasts about one year.

One common thing that service techs, retailers and consumers should be aware of is that all ozone systems need to be refreshed when output levels begin to decrease. Service techs can test these numbers with a gaseous ozone test kit. Hamil indicates that “All ozone systems need to be ‘refreshed’ every couple of years. For the UV ozone system this means changing the lamp; for a CD system this means changing the electrode.”

HELPING THE CONSUMER

When customers are looking for a hot tub or an ozonator, it is important to let them know what is available and how it can benefit them in the long run. Mike Cook, owner of Ace Spas located in the DC metro area, has run a successful hot tub repair business for over ten years and recommends ozonators to all of his customers.

“With the use of an ozone system, the spa takes care of itself when [customers are] away on vacation so [they] don’t need someone to check in on [their] spa,” Cook says.

“Many systems work 24 hours a day, so water always stays clear. [Recommend that consumers] look for spas that have an automatic default on them, so that when [users] turn the jets on the ozonator automatically goes off. This is programmed so that people who are sensitive to ozone gas will not have a problem if the spa is experiencing off-gassing.”

Paul Derence, sales and service manager at Hot Water Productions in Colorado, adds, “I feel that consumers are looking for the simplest, most environmentally friendly way to take care of their spa and I think that ozone does just that. For years, people interested in owning a spa are turned away because [they] somehow were brainwashed to believe that spas are difficult to maintain.”

With ozone systems, as mentioned previously, there is a reduction in chemical usage since ozone gas is an oxidizer. David Priano, owner of Priano’s Billiards & Backyards in Dalton Garden, Idaho, also adds, “Many [consumers] are under the impression that ozone will do everything that is needed chemically in the spa. I let them know that they still need to do the standard mineral balancing on the spa. Ozone does not take the place of that part of the chemistry.” Ozonators can be paired with all hot water chemical types too, such as mineral and bromine systems. However, since not every hot tub is alike, it may be best to look at the type of spa the customer has or is wanting and see if an ozone system is the best fit.

“With some spas that have advanced filtration systems, 24-hour circulation, ozone … is more effective. I’ve seen some spas that have the ozone return located 10 inches from the water level, so the ozone has a high gas off at the surface. Ozone is …. [more] effective when covering a larger surface area, which happens when it comes from near the bottom,” says Derence. “So I think it really depends on the brand of the spa, the engineering aspects behind the spa plumbing along with the filtration, as well as the amount of time that the spa circulates to really maximize the total benefit of ozone.”

Posted in Hot Tubs, Pools | No Comments »

Should we go with a Used Hot Tub or should we go NEW?

March 17th, 2010

I have been asked if I would buy NEW OR USED? Each and every time I am asked that, It gets me thinking. Should I buy a CHEAPER new spa with a majority of the parts derived from China or Mexico? Or should I Invest Heavily in a high quality hand crafted AMERICAN made spa? Well, I guess that depends on the end user. If you can sleep at night, knowing that a majority of your investment is going to another Country. Or wondering if they followed all the quality control steps there as are mandatory in the USA.

You can buy a new spa from China for $3000 but you better believe, you get what you pay for.

WHY IS AN American Made SPA BETTER THAN A NEW $3000 SPA?
Easy….

1.High Quality 5/16″ Lucite Acrylic costs manufacturers $1150 per sheet. There are over 200 manufacturers and less than 100,000 hot tubs being sold annually right now. Don’t believe their pitch they are selling in bulk.

2. Exterior Skirting and Framework: Many spa manufacturers are using untreated 3/4″ (1×4′s) wood to support the nearly 4000 pound spa (When filled with water). That works fine as long as you leave the spa where it is. What about when you move it in 3-5 years …. after that thin wood has time to rot because it isn’t treated .. or even painted? I have seen too many cheaply made spas come apart when we came out to relocate them.

3. Jets: You can purchase cheap jets for $3 …. shiny plastic jets that look chrome for a year or two before the chrome plastic chips away in the hot water or you can spend $60 on just one high quality massage jet. If someone is selling a new hot tub with 50+ jets for $3000 – what quality parts do you think it has inside?

4. Components – A full operating system with motor and blower connected to a cheap relay designed circuit board can be purchased as cheap as $250 (originating from china) or if you go direct to a Real American Made Product you are easily into the $1700-$2000 range for a high quality microprocessor controller with solid state circuitry. Which is in a $3000 spa?

Most people stay away from a used spa because they want the peace of mind a warranty provides. Most spa stores do not make their trade in spas look like new and back them with warranties because NO ONE would buy new.

http://www.myspaguy.us/used_hot_tubs.html has taken that factor out of the equation. Look at their website. They pickup trade ins and other nice USED spas and Refurbish them. MySpaGuy is a Pro USA company and only purchases parts made in the USA to refurbish their used American made hot tubs.

They also stand behind their refurbishment with a sold Warranty that is unparalleled in the Used Spa Industry. I have personally talked with several people that have purchased used hot tubs from Myspaguy and they have been overjoyed with the after the sale service they receive. That is saying something. In my experience, most businesses provide superior service up until they get paid. After the check clears, good luck getting them on the phone. Try calling myspaguy and see what you think.

5. Have you forgotten the most important part? Buy American because you are American.

Posted in Hot Tubs | No Comments »

Spa Water Maintenance – Prevent Nasty Smelly Water

January 13th, 2010

OOO that smell. Cant you smell that smell? No I am not talking about that… Does the water in your hot tub smell? Does it have an everlasting odor, regardless the amount of shock or chlorine you toss in? Many people blame a bad odor, skin irritation or stinging eyes on Chlorine or Bromine. Realisticly, that is rarely the case. Many times odors are chemical reactions caused by improperly balanced PH levels. Most odors can be prevented with proper maintenance and cleaning.

Spa & Hot Tub Odors can be caused by many different things but are commonly associated with Improper PH balancing; Improper Sanitizer application (Bromine/Chlorine); Lack of regular application of Oxidizers (Shock); Infrequent water changes; Hidden plumbing line factors from long term build up Don’t waste your money on spa fragrances & water softening products. You’ll only make the situation worse or delay the inevitable for a short time. Deal with the cause to cure the effect. Chlorine and bromine (or BaquaSpa Sanitizer) are all excellent sanitizers hot tub water. When used properly, they breakdown and combine with waste product (forming nitrogen molecules). Very similar to the body and how white blood cells attack and overcome blood contaminants. In spas, the combined molecules are captured by the filtration system and released when you clean your filter (every 3-5 uses). When the filter is overused or dirty, these molecules may re-circulate in the water for extended periods. During this entire process, a side effect occurs called off gassing. This off gassing is the release of Chloramines when using Chlorine as a Sanitizer and Bromamines when using Bromine. Chloramines and Bromamines can affect people differently but are typically considered a bad smell by just about everybody.

Chemical research studies have proven people actually like the smell of chlorine; at least when the ph is well balanced! When asked what was the first single descriptor word to come to mind – the following three were the most common: clean, safe & sanitary. When Chloramines were combined with carbon dioxide and a pH of 8.0 or higher, those same people agreed the smell was less than desirable. Here the descriptors used are laughable – with “Fishy and Dirty Socks” winning. These chemical combinations are what create that acidic “chlorine” odor that everyone correlates with Chlorine.

In order to increase free chlorines & bromines and decrease the “bad” Chloramines and Bromamines, it is necessary to shock the water. Shocking with a 45% di-chlor ingredient is the safest method for reducing Chloramines. If you are utilizing the bromine sanitizer program, you will want to apply a non-chlorine oxidizer such as potassium mono-persulfate. An important aspect with either chemical administration is to leave the spa cover open or completely off for up to 2 hours after administration. You should also attempt to keep all pumps on high and all blowers, turbos, or air valves “OFF”. If you do not keep the cover off and allow these gasses to exhaust, you might just notice the situation might worsen. If allowed to worsen, the problem will get so severe, you might just get the tear gas effect and come out with red welts (where the jets were shooting water on your body) and red eye. If you do not use your spa for a month or more, you should either clean and allow for off gassing bi-weekly or drain the spa so the situation doesn’t worsen. Remember, Shock your spa for safety. Bacteria can easily be inhaled upon long term exposure can create a rare condition called hot tub lung.

Earlier I noted BaquaSpa Sanitizers, there have been complaints of “choking” odors when using “biguanides” e.g. BaquaSpa, Soft Soak, or Leisure Time Free. The cause is very similar. Free biguanide molecules are attaching to bacteria and the resulting wastes are being vapor. The resulting vapor is then emitted from the spa into your face! Proper shocking with the shock (hydrogen peroxide) is necessary on a weekly basis to break up the resulting waste.

NOTE ON BIGUANIDES: Never use swimming pool shock – the odor will be worse. Only use biguanide products formulated for specifically for spas.

Improper PH balance – When pH is below 7.0 the chloramines and bromamines give off very acidic gases leading to coughing, wheezing or other health problems. When pH is over 8.0 the off gassing leads to stale & funky smells plus equipment scaling and will severely reduce the life of your spa components. i.e. pumps, filters, heater, etc.

Regular maintenance of your spa is vital to not only your spa enjoyment but also to the equipment life. Periodic cleaning or wiping down of the spa surfaces above the waterline to include the rim, under and around pillows, filtration area and all the little nooks, Crannies, etc. By cleaning the acrylic with a non-caustic cleaner formulated for spa acrylic, you not only get a good looking spa but it also aids in removing the build-up that leads to foaming and grunge. Bi-weekly cleaning should include cleaning the filter (clean by soaking with filter cleaner, not just rinsing) and cleaning the underneath and topside of the spa cover. In Fact monthly cleaning of the cover with a good quality vinyl cleaner and administration of a protectant such as Armorall will keep the cover looking like new for many years to come.

Drain & refill should be done directly after running a commonly available plumbing line cleanser to get the gunk hidden in the plumbing lines out. This done quarterly will make your spa maintenance seem like a breeze. Then drain completely, use a common non caustic acrylic cleaner and clean the entire spa with a good quality towel. When you refill, you should always use a hose end pre-filter such as you can purchase from Pacific Sands or your local spa store. These simple steps will make your ongoing maintenance a breeze.
Spa Enzyme is an additive available at most spa stores and can help keep your spa plumbing lines and equipment clean. It will increase your filters ability to clean the water and can further help prevent and eliminate odors or dirty water by breaking down grease, body oils and waste that affect your sanitizing system.

In less than one hour a week, you can keep your spa looking new and working perfectly for decades to come.

Tags: ,
Posted in Hot Tubs | No Comments »

Free Spa Buyers Guide

January 9th, 2010

For many consumers buying a spa is a life changing event. It is an event often accompanied by stress, when the intention is to alleviate it. There are so many producers of spas, so many sizes and models, prices and quality levels. Making it more complicated is that many spas look and feel virtually identical, even though they are not. Adding further to the confusion some manufacturers use different names to describe similar features in an attempt to make their products appear distinctive.

When confronted with so many choices, consumers often become overwhelmed. This guide will help you make a more informed decision about purchasing a spa by providing you with some basic facts. After reading this guide you will be well on your way to selecting the spa that is right for you, both practically and aesthetically.

How do I keep the water clean? Proper water maintenance is vital to the enjoyment of your spa. While some sales people will try to convince you they can sell you a chemical free spa; that is not a practical option for truly clean water.

Professional retailers and manufacturers most often recommend:
Choosing a spa with an advanced filtration system, purchasing an optional ozone purifier with your spa and using mineral purifiers in conjunction with chemical-based sanitizers. These minerals can significantly reduce the amount of chemicals such as chlorine. Maintenance procedures are not difficult, and knowledgeable retailers will provide the start-up kit and instructions. Manufacturers recommend draining and cleaning your spa 3 or 4 times per year, depending on how frequently you use it and how well you maintain your water. In most cases this simple process will only take about an hour to accomplish. The most common and proven technique is to broadcast spread one ounce of Di-Chlor Shock with no less than 45% available chlorine in the spa while all pumps are running. This should be done after each use but no more than once daily. This method will keep your spa water sparkling clear and smelling great. The negative of utilizing shock is that your ph will increase so you will also need to use half an ounce of ph decreaser after each dose of Shock.

Posted in Hot Tubs | No Comments »

Are used spas BETTER THAN A NEW SPA?

January 9th, 2010

WHY IS A USED $8000 SPA BETTER THAN A New $3000 SPA?
Easy….
1.High Quality 5/16″ Lucite Acrylic costs manufacturers $1150 EACH and as low as $850 if they are purchasing over 10,000 annually.

2. Exterior Skirting and Framework: Many spa manufacturers are using 3/4″ wood to support the nearly 2000 pounds of water. That works fine as long as you leave the spa where it is. What about when you move it in 3-5 years … after that thin wood has time to rot because it isn’t treated? I have seen too many spas falling apart.

3. Jets: You can purchase cheap jets for $3 with shiny plastic that looks chrome or you can spend $60 on just one high quality jet. If they are selling a new hot tub with 50 jets for $3000 – which jet do you think it has?

4. Components – A full setup with motor and blower connected to the controller can be purchased as cheap as $250 for chinese components or $1700 for high quality american made. Which is yours?

5. Insulation – is there any foam in it? I am not talking about silver colored bubble wrap. I am talking about high density foam. A full foam or thermal foam spa can cost as much as $500 just in foam!

6. Fittings – Are the hoses clear and slid over slip barbs or are they glued, clamped and installed on ridged barb fittings? Obviously it takes more time to do it correctly.

7. Warranty – If they are selling too cheap, and offer too great of a warranty then obviously you must consider the possibility they are going out of business.
If your budget is under $3000 and you just cant afford more then maybe you should consider a used spa. There are plenty of high quality spas out there built to last 20 years. Consider Investing in a quality made older spa.

Posted in Hot Tubs | No Comments »

Water Issues & Solutions

December 16th, 2009

Water Issues & Solutions
If you have Cloudy water, you most likely have Excessive organic contaminants or possibly even lack sanitizer. You should treat your spa with a good quality shock from a spa store. Make sure if you are using a chlorine system that you do not use Tri-Chlor as it can damage parts and void your warranty. If you are using Baqua Spa you will need to use specific Baqua Spa Shock and adjust sanitizer levels accordingly. Most indoor units utilize Bromine since the chemical does not off gas – if so, you should use non-chlorine shock.

Many times you will open the cover to discover Cloudy Murky Water. If there is no distinct odor it may very well be simply Dissolved chemical solids. You can use any easily obtained water clarifier to help remove small particles; however, you must not exceed the recommended dose or it will make things worse. You should always test and confirm pH is balanced or total alkalinity is incorrect. Test total alkalinity and pH easily with simple test dip strips. They can purchased anywhere. Remember, your Alkalinity and PH are linked so their readings should always be close. You can Correct both with pH increaser or pH decreaser. If they are too far apart you can purchase and dose it with Alkalinity increaser. They do not make alkalinity decreaser but ph decreser will bring your Alkaline levels down.

Many locales have Calcium too high (hard water). If that is the case use a sequestering agent weekly or just replace some of the hard water with softer water.

You can not believe how many people Service Calls related to Dirty filters. You should Clean your filter with filter cartridge cleaner bi-weekly and if you are up to it – give it a good wash with your garden hose every 5 uses. You will be suprised to learn that filter will last 3 years.

Chalky, white scale deposits are indicative of Mineral deposits in water. You should Use a sequestering agent. Check water balance and adjust as necessary.

Clear green water tells us you have High iron or copper content. You can purchase a sequestering agent at any local spa store.

Cloudy green water can be associated with Low alkalinity levels as well. Test and if low Use pH or alkalinity increaser.

Low sanitizer level can be addressed easily. Test sanitizer level, shock with non-chlorine shock

Brown water is from High iron or manganese level. Use a sequestering agent obtained from a spa store.

Chlorine odor can be from Chloramines (combined chlorine level) is high or if your PH is out of whack. Shock with non-chlorine shock

Eye/skin irritation from Organic contaminants, chloramines, or pH out of balance is common so Shock with shock. Test and adjust pH level.

Foaming is caused by many things by typically it is due to a High concentration of chemicals due to evaporation of good water and build-up of body oils, cosmetics and other contaminants. Use foam reducer. Shock treat with non-chlorine shock. Use enzyme reducer weekly as part of regular maintenance

Pitting of metal fixtures is common due to LOW pH. Test and adjust pH and total alkalinity by adding pH up or
Total alkalinity increaser as it is probably too low.

Tags: ,
Posted in Hot Tubs, Pools | No Comments »

My Hot Tub Has No Heat at All!

December 1st, 2009

This is very different from “it’s getting a little bit warm”. It could have the same cause, but a heating element is like a light bulb, it either works or it doesn’t. If there’s absolutely no heat the first thing to test is the heating element. IS IT GETTING ELECTRICITY? (Hint, if you have a 240v heater, you must test for 240 volts directly at the two terminals of the heater. Testing from one terminal to ground will give a proper reading even if the element is bad).

    The element is getting electricity.

If the element is getting electricity the next test is an amp test. If you don’t know how to perform an amp test “call a qualified spa technician. Generally, a 120v heater should pull 12.5 amps and a 240 volt heater should pull 25 amps. If you’re getting proper amperage draw, move on to “it’s getting a little bit warm”, below. If you’re not getting any amperage draw, you have a bad heater element.

A perfect match is not always possible, and some differences are just fine. Some of the acceptable differences are;

Difference in physical length. A shorter element is ok, as long as the other specifications match up. A longer element may not fit the existing housing.

Slight difference in kilowatt rating. A difference in “kw” rating of 1/2kw is perfectly acceptable. Frequently, a 6kw element will be replaced with a 5.5kw element.

The two most important things are;

The element attaches to the heater housing must be the same (some unusual or obsolete elements may require a different element along with an adapter). If your heater element is threaded, the picture below should give some guidance on sizing and measuring for replacements.

The voltage rating must be the same. An element rated for 120v only, cannot be used in place of a 240v element, however, an element rated for 240v can generally be use in place of a 120v element.

The element IS NOT getting electricity

If the element is not getting any power. Using the volt meter, start at the heating element and follow the wiring back until you find the switch or relay that isn’t allowing electricity to pass through. If power for the element is fed through a relay and the relay isn’t closing, it then must be determined why, or what switch is preventing it. The next step is to determine if the switch is truly bad, or if it’s just doing it’s job (a high limit switch may be cutting off due to some other problem that’s causing the water at it’s sensing point to over heat).

Some of the many possibilities for a good switch to appear broken are (and the apparent culprit);
Low water flow (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
A dirty filter (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
A clogged tube feeding a pressure switch (pressure switch)
Magnetic door interlock misaligned (door interlock)
Heating element shorting out into the water (GFCI tripping)

If all of this doesn’t seem to make sense, you feel you need a lot more information or you don’t feel comfortable in attempting this type of diagnosis or repair, “call My Spa Guy” at 888-MySpaGuy or visit them on the web for more technical help. www.MySpaGuy.us

Posted in Hot Tubs | No Comments »

Nothing on the spa operates – What Should I Do?

December 1st, 2009

Nothing on the spa operates
1. Check the control panel display for any messages. If there is a message, refer to the diagnostic section on that model spa. There you will find the meaning of the message and what action is to be taken.
2. If there is no message on your control panel, check and reset the GFCI* and house breaker. (*The GFCI should be located in a weatherproof box within sight of the spa, but no closer than 5 ft.)
3. If the spa does not respond, contact a service technician

Pump(s) do not operate
1. Press the “Jets” button on your control panel.
If you hear the pumps trying to operate:
A. Check that all the slice valves are open.
B. Pump may need to be primed.
C. Check that the air controls are open.
If you do not hear anything from the pump, contact a service technician

Poor jet performance
1. Make sure pump is operating.
2. Check that the water level is adequate (up to minimum safe water level side).
3. Make sure the jets are open and the air controls are open.
4. Check for dirty filters. Clean if necessary.

Spa not heating
* If the spas heater has failed, the majority of the time it will trip the GFCI breaker. If the spa is not heating and has not tripped the breaker, please follow these steps:
1. Check the control panel for diagnostic messages. (Refer to your spa models diagnostic message area in the owners manual.) Follow their steps to alleviate message.
2. Check water set temperature at control panel to ensure it is higher than the current read temperature.
3. Check for dirty filters. Clean with a filter cleaner to break down hidden calcuim deposits before spraying off.
4. Check “heat mode” the spa is set in. Spa should be in standard mode and not Sleep Mode or Econo Mode.
5. Check the control panel for heater light indicator and/or thermometer icon. If the light is on or the indicator icon is moving, the spa should be heating. Wait a reasonable amount of time (approximately 1 hour) to see if the water temperature is changing.
6. Check to make sure that the pump is primed and all slice valves are open or pulled away from the pipes.
7. Reset power to the spa at GFCI breaker by flipping off for 5 minutes then back on.
8. If spa is still not heating, contact a service technician

GFCI is tripping
The Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is required, by NEC code (National Electrician Code), for your protection. The tripping of the GFCI may be caused by a component on the spa or by an electrical problem. Such electrical problems include, but are not limited to, a faulty GFCI breaker, power fluctuations, or a miswire. It may be necessary to contact a service technician to come out and correct this issue.

Nothing on the spa operates By Chase Truitt. For more free troubleshooting FAQ visit https://carolinaservicegroup.com/spas/index.php?main_page=faqs_all or you can visit our owner manual link finder at http://myspaguy.net/tech_help.html.

Posted in Hot Tubs | 2 Comments »

Hot Tub Covers – READ before you BUY

November 13th, 2009

Did you know hot tub covers can be as expensive as $600 and If you have a hot tub, you most likely already have a hot tub cover – the cover that came with it. The question is, is that hot tub cover the best cover for you hot tub? Hot tub covers serve four major purposes. One, they keep impurities out of your water. Two, they are also important in terms of safety – pets or small children could fall into a hot tub without a cover. Three, hot tub covers help hot tubs retain heat, keeping heating bills low. Four, they protect hot tub shells from direct sun exposure, which can harm hot tubs.

So, how do you determine whether or not your hot tub cover is working for you? If you have children or pets, you definitely want to keep your cover on when you are not using the hot tub. Make sure that your hot tub cover fits securely over your hot tub – also make sure that your cover is the right size – and that it is sturdy and durable. In fact, having a hot tub cover that fits securely also helps keep impurities out of your water while keeping heat in.

Over time, your hot tub cover may become heavy and waterlogged, maybe even moldy. When this happens, your cover cannot insulate as well. In this case, it may be time to get a new hot tub cover, or at least a floating foam blanket. You can help prevent water-logging by unzipping your hot tub cover every 2 to 3 months and allowing the foam to dry out. Also realize that a hot tub cover can also become worn and creased where it has been folded open many times. A crease in your hot tub cover may allow more heat to escape than would be able to otherwise.

Most hot tub covers are all insulated with the same material: Expanded Polystyrene (EPS). So, it is not the material that matters when it comes to insulation, but the thickness. The thicker, the better. Hot tub covers have an R-value. The R-value refers to a material’s ability to resist the flow of heat. The R-value is based on thickness. In general, the higher the R-value, the better.

Hot tub covers can be very heavy, even when they are not waterlogged. This is good, because it makes it that much harder for a child to find his or her way into a hot tub unsupervised, but it can make it hard to open up your hot tub. If your hot tub cover is too heavy, you may want to consider getting a cover lifter. A cover lifter makes the huge ordeal of lifting off the hot tub cover much less of an ordeal.

Be aware that outdoor hot tub covers may wear more quickly than indoor ones, because they are exposed to the elements. All in all, a hot tub cover will not last as long as your hot tub, but it is up to you to decide when and how to replace it. In the long run, buying a new cover may be better than risking high heating bills.

Before replacing your hot tub cover, see if it can be easily repaired, and also check out the warranty.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anne_Clarke

For more of info on ordering hot tub covers, please see Hot Tub Covers.

Posted in Hot Tubs | No Comments »

« Older Entries