Spa Water Maintenance – Prevent Nasty Smelly Water

January 13th, 2010

OOO that smell. Cant you smell that smell? No I am not talking about that… Does the water in your hot tub smell? Does it have an everlasting odor, regardless the amount of shock or chlorine you toss in? Many people blame a bad odor, skin irritation or stinging eyes on Chlorine or Bromine. Realisticly, that is rarely the case. Many times odors are chemical reactions caused by improperly balanced PH levels. Most odors can be prevented with proper maintenance and cleaning.

Spa & Hot Tub Odors can be caused by many different things but are commonly associated with Improper PH balancing; Improper Sanitizer application (Bromine/Chlorine); Lack of regular application of Oxidizers (Shock); Infrequent water changes; Hidden plumbing line factors from long term build up Don’t waste your money on spa fragrances & water softening products. You’ll only make the situation worse or delay the inevitable for a short time. Deal with the cause to cure the effect. Chlorine and bromine (or BaquaSpa Sanitizer) are all excellent sanitizers hot tub water. When used properly, they breakdown and combine with waste product (forming nitrogen molecules). Very similar to the body and how white blood cells attack and overcome blood contaminants. In spas, the combined molecules are captured by the filtration system and released when you clean your filter (every 3-5 uses). When the filter is overused or dirty, these molecules may re-circulate in the water for extended periods. During this entire process, a side effect occurs called off gassing. This off gassing is the release of Chloramines when using Chlorine as a Sanitizer and Bromamines when using Bromine. Chloramines and Bromamines can affect people differently but are typically considered a bad smell by just about everybody.

Chemical research studies have proven people actually like the smell of chlorine; at least when the ph is well balanced! When asked what was the first single descriptor word to come to mind – the following three were the most common: clean, safe & sanitary. When Chloramines were combined with carbon dioxide and a pH of 8.0 or higher, those same people agreed the smell was less than desirable. Here the descriptors used are laughable – with “Fishy and Dirty Socks” winning. These chemical combinations are what create that acidic “chlorine” odor that everyone correlates with Chlorine.

In order to increase free chlorines & bromines and decrease the “bad” Chloramines and Bromamines, it is necessary to shock the water. Shocking with a 45% di-chlor ingredient is the safest method for reducing Chloramines. If you are utilizing the bromine sanitizer program, you will want to apply a non-chlorine oxidizer such as potassium mono-persulfate. An important aspect with either chemical administration is to leave the spa cover open or completely off for up to 2 hours after administration. You should also attempt to keep all pumps on high and all blowers, turbos, or air valves “OFF”. If you do not keep the cover off and allow these gasses to exhaust, you might just notice the situation might worsen. If allowed to worsen, the problem will get so severe, you might just get the tear gas effect and come out with red welts (where the jets were shooting water on your body) and red eye. If you do not use your spa for a month or more, you should either clean and allow for off gassing bi-weekly or drain the spa so the situation doesn’t worsen. Remember, Shock your spa for safety. Bacteria can easily be inhaled upon long term exposure can create a rare condition called hot tub lung.

Earlier I noted BaquaSpa Sanitizers, there have been complaints of “choking” odors when using “biguanides” e.g. BaquaSpa, Soft Soak, or Leisure Time Free. The cause is very similar. Free biguanide molecules are attaching to bacteria and the resulting wastes are being vapor. The resulting vapor is then emitted from the spa into your face! Proper shocking with the shock (hydrogen peroxide) is necessary on a weekly basis to break up the resulting waste.

NOTE ON BIGUANIDES: Never use swimming pool shock – the odor will be worse. Only use biguanide products formulated for specifically for spas.

Improper PH balance – When pH is below 7.0 the chloramines and bromamines give off very acidic gases leading to coughing, wheezing or other health problems. When pH is over 8.0 the off gassing leads to stale & funky smells plus equipment scaling and will severely reduce the life of your spa components. i.e. pumps, filters, heater, etc.

Regular maintenance of your spa is vital to not only your spa enjoyment but also to the equipment life. Periodic cleaning or wiping down of the spa surfaces above the waterline to include the rim, under and around pillows, filtration area and all the little nooks, Crannies, etc. By cleaning the acrylic with a non-caustic cleaner formulated for spa acrylic, you not only get a good looking spa but it also aids in removing the build-up that leads to foaming and grunge. Bi-weekly cleaning should include cleaning the filter (clean by soaking with filter cleaner, not just rinsing) and cleaning the underneath and topside of the spa cover. In Fact monthly cleaning of the cover with a good quality vinyl cleaner and administration of a protectant such as Armorall will keep the cover looking like new for many years to come.

Drain & refill should be done directly after running a commonly available plumbing line cleanser to get the gunk hidden in the plumbing lines out. This done quarterly will make your spa maintenance seem like a breeze. Then drain completely, use a common non caustic acrylic cleaner and clean the entire spa with a good quality towel. When you refill, you should always use a hose end pre-filter such as you can purchase from Pacific Sands or your local spa store. These simple steps will make your ongoing maintenance a breeze.
Spa Enzyme is an additive available at most spa stores and can help keep your spa plumbing lines and equipment clean. It will increase your filters ability to clean the water and can further help prevent and eliminate odors or dirty water by breaking down grease, body oils and waste that affect your sanitizing system.

In less than one hour a week, you can keep your spa looking new and working perfectly for decades to come.

Free Spa Buyers Guide

January 9th, 2010

For many consumers buying a spa is a life changing event. It is an event often accompanied by stress, when the intention is to alleviate it. There are so many producers of spas, so many sizes and models, prices and quality levels. Making it more complicated is that many spas look and feel virtually identical, even though they are not. Adding further to the confusion some manufacturers use different names to describe similar features in an attempt to make their products appear distinctive.

When confronted with so many choices, consumers often become overwhelmed. This guide will help you make a more informed decision about purchasing a spa by providing you with some basic facts. After reading this guide you will be well on your way to selecting the spa that is right for you, both practically and aesthetically.

How do I keep the water clean? Proper water maintenance is vital to the enjoyment of your spa. While some sales people will try to convince you they can sell you a chemical free spa; that is not a practical option for truly clean water.

Professional retailers and manufacturers most often recommend:
Choosing a spa with an advanced filtration system, purchasing an optional ozone purifier with your spa and using mineral purifiers in conjunction with chemical-based sanitizers. These minerals can significantly reduce the amount of chemicals such as chlorine. Maintenance procedures are not difficult, and knowledgeable retailers will provide the start-up kit and instructions. Manufacturers recommend draining and cleaning your spa 3 or 4 times per year, depending on how frequently you use it and how well you maintain your water. In most cases this simple process will only take about an hour to accomplish. The most common and proven technique is to broadcast spread one ounce of Di-Chlor Shock with no less than 45% available chlorine in the spa while all pumps are running. This should be done after each use but no more than once daily. This method will keep your spa water sparkling clear and smelling great. The negative of utilizing shock is that your ph will increase so you will also need to use half an ounce of ph decreaser after each dose of Shock.

Are used spas BETTER THAN A NEW SPA?

January 9th, 2010

WHY IS A USED $8000 SPA BETTER THAN A New $3000 SPA?
Easy….
1.High Quality 5/16″ Lucite Acrylic costs manufacturers $1150 EACH and as low as $850 if they are purchasing over 10,000 annually.

2. Exterior Skirting and Framework: Many spa manufacturers are using 3/4″ wood to support the nearly 2000 pounds of water. That works fine as long as you leave the spa where it is. What about when you move it in 3-5 years … after that thin wood has time to rot because it isn’t treated? I have seen too many spas falling apart.

3. Jets: You can purchase cheap jets for $3 with shiny plastic that looks chrome or you can spend $60 on just one high quality jet. If they are selling a new hot tub with 50 jets for $3000 – which jet do you think it has?

4. Components – A full setup with motor and blower connected to the controller can be purchased as cheap as $250 for chinese components or $1700 for high quality american made. Which is yours?

5. Insulation – is there any foam in it? I am not talking about silver colored bubble wrap. I am talking about high density foam. A full foam or thermal foam spa can cost as much as $500 just in foam!

6. Fittings – Are the hoses clear and slid over slip barbs or are they glued, clamped and installed on ridged barb fittings? Obviously it takes more time to do it correctly.

7. Warranty – If they are selling too cheap, and offer too great of a warranty then obviously you must consider the possibility they are going out of business.
If your budget is under $3000 and you just cant afford more then maybe you should consider a used spa. There are plenty of high quality spas out there built to last 20 years. Consider Investing in a quality made older spa.

Water Issues & Solutions

December 16th, 2009

Water Issues & Solutions
If you have Cloudy water, you most likely have Excessive organic contaminants or possibly even lack sanitizer. You should treat your spa with a good quality shock from a spa store. Make sure if you are using a chlorine system that you do not use Tri-Chlor as it can damage parts and void your warranty. If you are using Baqua Spa you will need to use specific Baqua Spa Shock and adjust sanitizer levels accordingly. Most indoor units utilize Bromine since the chemical does not off gas – if so, you should use non-chlorine shock.

Many times you will open the cover to discover Cloudy Murky Water. If there is no distinct odor it may very well be simply Dissolved chemical solids. You can use any easily obtained water clarifier to help remove small particles; however, you must not exceed the recommended dose or it will make things worse. You should always test and confirm pH is balanced or total alkalinity is incorrect. Test total alkalinity and pH easily with simple test dip strips. They can purchased anywhere. Remember, your Alkalinity and PH are linked so their readings should always be close. You can Correct both with pH increaser or pH decreaser. If they are too far apart you can purchase and dose it with Alkalinity increaser. They do not make alkalinity decreaser but ph decreser will bring your Alkaline levels down.

Many locales have Calcium too high (hard water). If that is the case use a sequestering agent weekly or just replace some of the hard water with softer water.

You can not believe how many people Service Calls related to Dirty filters. You should Clean your filter with filter cartridge cleaner bi-weekly and if you are up to it – give it a good wash with your garden hose every 5 uses. You will be suprised to learn that filter will last 3 years.

Chalky, white scale deposits are indicative of Mineral deposits in water. You should Use a sequestering agent. Check water balance and adjust as necessary.

Clear green water tells us you have High iron or copper content. You can purchase a sequestering agent at any local spa store.

Cloudy green water can be associated with Low alkalinity levels as well. Test and if low Use pH or alkalinity increaser.

Low sanitizer level can be addressed easily. Test sanitizer level, shock with non-chlorine shock

Brown water is from High iron or manganese level. Use a sequestering agent obtained from a spa store.

Chlorine odor can be from Chloramines (combined chlorine level) is high or if your PH is out of whack. Shock with non-chlorine shock

Eye/skin irritation from Organic contaminants, chloramines, or pH out of balance is common so Shock with shock. Test and adjust pH level.

Foaming is caused by many things by typically it is due to a High concentration of chemicals due to evaporation of good water and build-up of body oils, cosmetics and other contaminants. Use foam reducer. Shock treat with non-chlorine shock. Use enzyme reducer weekly as part of regular maintenance

Pitting of metal fixtures is common due to LOW pH. Test and adjust pH and total alkalinity by adding pH up or
Total alkalinity increaser as it is probably too low.

My Hot Tub Has No Heat at All!

December 1st, 2009

This is very different from “it’s getting a little bit warm”. It could have the same cause, but a heating element is like a light bulb, it either works or it doesn’t. If there’s absolutely no heat the first thing to test is the heating element. IS IT GETTING ELECTRICITY? (Hint, if you have a 240v heater, you must test for 240 volts directly at the two terminals of the heater. Testing from one terminal to ground will give a proper reading even if the element is bad).

    The element is getting electricity.

If the element is getting electricity the next test is an amp test. If you don’t know how to perform an amp test “call a qualified spa technician. Generally, a 120v heater should pull 12.5 amps and a 240 volt heater should pull 25 amps. If you’re getting proper amperage draw, move on to “it’s getting a little bit warm”, below. If you’re not getting any amperage draw, you have a bad heater element.

A perfect match is not always possible, and some differences are just fine. Some of the acceptable differences are;

Difference in physical length. A shorter element is ok, as long as the other specifications match up. A longer element may not fit the existing housing.

Slight difference in kilowatt rating. A difference in “kw” rating of 1/2kw is perfectly acceptable. Frequently, a 6kw element will be replaced with a 5.5kw element.

The two most important things are;

The element attaches to the heater housing must be the same (some unusual or obsolete elements may require a different element along with an adapter). If your heater element is threaded, the picture below should give some guidance on sizing and measuring for replacements.

The voltage rating must be the same. An element rated for 120v only, cannot be used in place of a 240v element, however, an element rated for 240v can generally be use in place of a 120v element.

The element IS NOT getting electricity

If the element is not getting any power. Using the volt meter, start at the heating element and follow the wiring back until you find the switch or relay that isn’t allowing electricity to pass through. If power for the element is fed through a relay and the relay isn’t closing, it then must be determined why, or what switch is preventing it. The next step is to determine if the switch is truly bad, or if it’s just doing it’s job (a high limit switch may be cutting off due to some other problem that’s causing the water at it’s sensing point to over heat).

Some of the many possibilities for a good switch to appear broken are (and the apparent culprit);
Low water flow (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
A dirty filter (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
A clogged tube feeding a pressure switch (pressure switch)
Magnetic door interlock misaligned (door interlock)
Heating element shorting out into the water (GFCI tripping)

If all of this doesn’t seem to make sense, you feel you need a lot more information or you don’t feel comfortable in attempting this type of diagnosis or repair, “call My Spa Guy” at 888-MySpaGuy or visit them on the web for more technical help. www.MySpaGuy.us

Nothing on the spa operates – What Should I Do?

December 1st, 2009

Nothing on the spa operates
1. Check the control panel display for any messages. If there is a message, refer to the diagnostic section on that model spa. There you will find the meaning of the message and what action is to be taken.
2. If there is no message on your control panel, check and reset the GFCI* and house breaker. (*The GFCI should be located in a weatherproof box within sight of the spa, but no closer than 5 ft.)
3. If the spa does not respond, contact a service technician

Pump(s) do not operate
1. Press the “Jets” button on your control panel.
If you hear the pumps trying to operate:
A. Check that all the slice valves are open.
B. Pump may need to be primed.
C. Check that the air controls are open.
If you do not hear anything from the pump, contact a service technician

Poor jet performance
1. Make sure pump is operating.
2. Check that the water level is adequate (up to minimum safe water level side).
3. Make sure the jets are open and the air controls are open.
4. Check for dirty filters. Clean if necessary.

Spa not heating
* If the spas heater has failed, the majority of the time it will trip the GFCI breaker. If the spa is not heating and has not tripped the breaker, please follow these steps:
1. Check the control panel for diagnostic messages. (Refer to your spa models diagnostic message area in the owners manual.) Follow their steps to alleviate message.
2. Check water set temperature at control panel to ensure it is higher than the current read temperature.
3. Check for dirty filters. Clean with a filter cleaner to break down hidden calcuim deposits before spraying off.
4. Check “heat mode” the spa is set in. Spa should be in standard mode and not Sleep Mode or Econo Mode.
5. Check the control panel for heater light indicator and/or thermometer icon. If the light is on or the indicator icon is moving, the spa should be heating. Wait a reasonable amount of time (approximately 1 hour) to see if the water temperature is changing.
6. Check to make sure that the pump is primed and all slice valves are open or pulled away from the pipes.
7. Reset power to the spa at GFCI breaker by flipping off for 5 minutes then back on.
8. If spa is still not heating, contact a service technician

GFCI is tripping
The Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is required, by NEC code (National Electrician Code), for your protection. The tripping of the GFCI may be caused by a component on the spa or by an electrical problem. Such electrical problems include, but are not limited to, a faulty GFCI breaker, power fluctuations, or a miswire. It may be necessary to contact a service technician to come out and correct this issue.

Nothing on the spa operates By Chase Truitt. For more free troubleshooting FAQ visit https://carolinaservicegroup.com/spas/index.php?main_page=faqs_all or you can visit our owner manual link finder at http://myspaguy.net/tech_help.html.

Hot Tub Covers – READ before you BUY

November 13th, 2009

Did you know hot tub covers can be as expensive as $600 and If you have a hot tub, you most likely already have a hot tub cover – the cover that came with it. The question is, is that hot tub cover the best cover for you hot tub? Hot tub covers serve four major purposes. One, they keep impurities out of your water. Two, they are also important in terms of safety – pets or small children could fall into a hot tub without a cover. Three, hot tub covers help hot tubs retain heat, keeping heating bills low. Four, they protect hot tub shells from direct sun exposure, which can harm hot tubs.

So, how do you determine whether or not your hot tub cover is working for you? If you have children or pets, you definitely want to keep your cover on when you are not using the hot tub. Make sure that your hot tub cover fits securely over your hot tub – also make sure that your cover is the right size – and that it is sturdy and durable. In fact, having a hot tub cover that fits securely also helps keep impurities out of your water while keeping heat in.

Over time, your hot tub cover may become heavy and waterlogged, maybe even moldy. When this happens, your cover cannot insulate as well. In this case, it may be time to get a new hot tub cover, or at least a floating foam blanket. You can help prevent water-logging by unzipping your hot tub cover every 2 to 3 months and allowing the foam to dry out. Also realize that a hot tub cover can also become worn and creased where it has been folded open many times. A crease in your hot tub cover may allow more heat to escape than would be able to otherwise.

Most hot tub covers are all insulated with the same material: Expanded Polystyrene (EPS). So, it is not the material that matters when it comes to insulation, but the thickness. The thicker, the better. Hot tub covers have an R-value. The R-value refers to a material’s ability to resist the flow of heat. The R-value is based on thickness. In general, the higher the R-value, the better.

Hot tub covers can be very heavy, even when they are not waterlogged. This is good, because it makes it that much harder for a child to find his or her way into a hot tub unsupervised, but it can make it hard to open up your hot tub. If your hot tub cover is too heavy, you may want to consider getting a cover lifter. A cover lifter makes the huge ordeal of lifting off the hot tub cover much less of an ordeal.

Be aware that outdoor hot tub covers may wear more quickly than indoor ones, because they are exposed to the elements. All in all, a hot tub cover will not last as long as your hot tub, but it is up to you to decide when and how to replace it. In the long run, buying a new cover may be better than risking high heating bills.

Before replacing your hot tub cover, see if it can be easily repaired, and also check out the warranty.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anne_Clarke

For more of info on ordering hot tub covers, please see Hot Tub Covers.

Alkalinity in Pools – Why’s it So Important and How to Control It

November 13th, 2009

Alkalinity in pools is an extremely important topic as it’s what helps prevent sudden pH changes. Total alkalinity is a measure of alkaline substances in this case, ionic compounds, that act as buffers that resist pH change.

Don’t worry, this is just a bunch of chemistry and scientific mumbo jumbo that you really don’t need to know. What is important to understand is that alkalinity helps stabilize the pH balance in your pool, and keeping it within normal range can save you a lot of headaches as well as solve a lot of problems.

The recommended range for a swimming pool’s total alkalinity is between 80 and 120 parts per million. Any good pool testing kit will let you determine the range, and it’s important to test often.

So, when it comes to alkalinity there are really only 3 states in can be in: Too High, Too Low and Just Right.

Low Alkalinity
With low alkalinity your pH levels can swing back and forth between too high, and too low. It’s not uncommon for these numbers to shift drastically causing an unbalance in your pools pH.

Some problems that are associated with this include:
-Chlorine inefficiency
-Metal Corrosion
-Pool Staining
-Scale

You can easily raise a pool’s alkalinity by using a chemical called sodium bicarbonate which is, baking soda. The recommended dosage is 1.5 pounds of sodium bicarbonate per 10,000 gallons of water. If you’re unsure how much water you have you can find a good estimate by using this formula:

Average Width x Average Length x Average Depth x 7.5

Add the amount you need with your pump running, to make sure the chemicals are mixing nicely. Do this once every 4 days until your alkalinity becomes stabilized.

High Alkalinity
With high alkalinity your pH will generally be much higher than normal as well. A good sign that you’re dealing with high alkalinity is having cloudy swimming pool water.

Other problems include:
-Reduced pool circulation
-Clogged Filter
-Rough Surfaces

Since your pool is too alkaline the best way to correct this problem is by using an acid. For swimming pools we either use muriatic or sodium bisulfate. You can purchase either at any swimming pool and spa store.

The best approach I’ve personally found with this is to first begin by adding enough acid to bring your pH balance down to 7.0. Then, let the pool sit for awhile until the pH climbs back up to around 7.2. Repeat this process until your pool alkalinity seems to have stabilized, but be sure to follow the directions on whichever acid product you decide to go with so as not to add too much acid.

Alkalinity in pools is an important part of swimming pool chemistry. Poor pool maintenance can lead to sudden shifts, but that’s probably not your fault. The truth is, so called pool “experts” will give you bad advice in order to make you buy their chemicals and equipment, when really it isn’t that hard to take care of a pool.

That’s why I recommend investing in a swimming pool maintenance guide. These guides take the guess work out of maintaining your pool. You can literally save thousands of dollars each year follow the advice and directions found within these guides.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frank_Surgoat

Closing Your Above Ground Swimming Pool

November 13th, 2009

After a great long summer of enjoying your above ground swimming pool, it’s sad to say, but it’s time to close it. The kids are back in school and the night time is just a little cooler. Closing your above ground pool is easy. I would recommend having somebody help you out.

First you need to make sure you have all your supplies ready:

1. A pool cover
2. A cable and winch to secure the pool cover
3. Winter Chemicals
4. Winter plugs
5. A car wash sponge

There are multiple ways to close a pool but here is the easiest. Drain your pool 6 inches below your swimming pool’s skimmer. Add the winter chemicals to your pool water and make sure you spread them all around the pool. Note: it’s best to buy a winter kit that way you don’t need to measure out your chemicals. Once the chemicals have been added slowly lay the pool cover across the entire pool. Let the cover sit on top of the water and over the sides (you don’t want the cover to be taunt). Now thread your cable in and out of the grommets per the cover instructions and tighten with the cable winch to secure it. Now that you have the cover on place the car wash sponge in the skimmer box in case it fills with water over the winter and freezes. Now on your filter system remove all of the plugs from your filter and place them in the pump basket for a safe place and bring your pump indoors for the winter. That’s pretty simple and quick instructions.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Gio

What You Should Know About Swimming Pool Drains and Entrapment

November 13th, 2009

Swimming pool drains have received a lot of attention lately; with warmer weather and the opening of public pools approaching. The talk concerns the new federal standards enacted with the passing of “The Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act” , which became effective on December 19, 2008. The major changes resulting from the act are the requirement of barriers to prevent access to small children and that the swimming pool drains on all public pools be equipped with anti-entrapment devices or systems. Though the law applies only to public pools; it is highly recommended that the same protective measures be taken with residential pools and spas. For those who may be unfamiliar with the dangers of entrapment and the preventative methods; we’ve provided answers to some commonly asked questions.

What Is Entrapment?
Answer: Entrapment involves someone being held against a pool or spa drain by vacuum pressure from the pool pump. Pool water is circulated by being pulled through the main drain, pushed through the filter, and back to the pool through return lines. Many older pools and spas were built or made with only one drain. When these single drains are cover by parts of the body or if a persons hair or limbs are somehow inserted into the drain; a powerful suction, or vortex is created. The suction can be strong enough to prevent a child, or an adult, from freeing themselves. There have also been instances where sitting on the drain and having their intestines sucked out by the pressure have disemboweled children.

What measures can be taken to prevent entrapment?
Answer: The first step of prevention is to have the main drains split with dual anti-vortex drain covers and at least 36 inches from center of sump to center of sump.
The law now makes it a crime to sell or install pools or spas that are not equipped with dual main drains and anti-entrapment drain covers. In addition, all public pools, regardless of age, must meet those same requirements or have other anti-entrapment systems or devices installed.

What Are the Options for Pools With Only One Drain?
Answer: There are several compliance options for older pools with single drains.

* Cut out the bottom of the pool and re-plumb the line to install split drains with at 36 inches from center of sump to center of sump
* Install a gravity drain system
* Install a suction limiting vent system
* Install an automatic pump shutoff
* Disable the main drain

What is the best option for my pool?
Answer: Re-plumbing the main drains or installing a gravity drain are viable options, but the high cost of either of these repairs make them much less practical for residential pools than the other systems. Disabling the drain, while not as costly, would greatly reduce the rate of circulation, unless changes are made to the pump and filter system. This leaves us with two feasible and reasonably priced options.

* Suction Limiting Vent System (SVRS)-This system involves the installation of an atmospheric vent on the suction side of the pump, which opens and introduces air into the suction lines when there is a sudden increase in vacuum pressure. There are several manufacturers of these systems including Vac-Alert and Hayward, with prices ranging from $500 to $800.
* Automatic Pump Shutoff-This is an electrical device that monitors the system and automatically shuts off power to the pump when there is a sudden increase in vacuum pressure. There are several manufacturers of this equipment and prices are about the same as the SVRS systems. There are also some devices available that combine both types of systems.

Hopefully we’ve helped shed some light on this vitally important issue. As I mentioned earlier, the new law currently applies only to public pools. However, the very real danger of entrapment makes this an issue you can’t afford to ignore. As a precaution; I recommend the use of more than one type of device or system and the devices should be tested periodically to insure proper operation.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Glenn_Whitehead